Small, shallow, and forking roots: Many a gardener has spied colorful, wide shoulders at ground level on maturing carrots, and happily anticipated eating luscious carrot roots of several inches in length, only to discover at harvest that these root crowns disguise multiple tiny or tough unpalatable roots going sideways within the top inch or two of soil, or bunches of smaller roots wrapped around each other. These issues have many causes, including obstructed, compacted, or uneven soil; overcrowding; overly wet or waterlogged soils; overly alkaline or acidic soils; root disturbance during the first few weeks after planting or during transplanting; freezes or cold weather within the first several weeks after sprouting; root-knot nematodes; and soil fungi such as Pythium and Rhizoctonia.
Split roots are often caused by wet-dry soil cycles, uneven watering, or soil that dries out between waterings. Also may be caused by too much nitrogen.
Green root-tops are caused by exposure to sunlight. Cover roots with soil or mulch.
Furry roots or a vigorous root system with many small roots and no harvestable taproot: This is generally caused too much nitrogen. Carrots have extensive, fine root systems that often extend a few or several feet into soil, and they are effective at obtaining nitrogen from soil. Carrots may need only composted manure or minimal, occasional addition of nitrogen even in soils that are relatively low in nitrogen.
Poor or pale color in carrot roots may be caused by uneven soil moisture, soil that is too wet, and temperatures that are too hot or too cold during last few weeks before harvest.
Tough or woody roots, lack of sweetness, and/or unpleasant flavor are most often the result of temperatures above 85° F or roots staying in the ground too long, especially in warm-to-hot weather.
To view complete instructions for growing carrots in your area, go to GardenZeus and enter your zip code, then go to carrot.