Spinach is an annual cool-season vegetable in the Amaranthaceae family, related to beets, chard, quinoa, and tumbleweeds. Spinach has likely been eaten by humans for at least 2000 years. The wild ancestor of modern spinach is believed to have been native to Central and Western Asia, with earliest known agricultural cultivation in the Middle East, India, and China. Spinach was cultivated in the Mediterranean by about the 8th or 9th Century C.E.; it spread to Spain by the 11th or 12th Century, and then throughout Europe and to England by the 14th Century C.E.
Perhaps the most famous spinach lover in history was Catherine de Medici, who popularized spinach in France beginning in 1522. Her love of spinach was so well-known that she was rumored to have it served at every meal. Because of the de Medici family origins in Florence, French dishes cooked with spinach came to be called "a la florentine." Colonists brought spinach to North America by the early 19th Century.
GardenZeus information about spinach is for Spinacia oleracea only and does not apply to other plants called "spinach" including New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) and Malabar Spinach (Basella alba). "Wild spinach" generally refers to the wild edible weed lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) or other wild Chenopodiums.
Spinach shares the distinction with corn, garlic, peanut, acorn squash, watermelon, and potato of having its own national holiday. National Spinach Day is March 26 but don't expect paid vacation time. Unfortunately, Spinach Day is not a federal or state holiday.
For information about types of garden spinach (Spinacia oleracea only), see: The GardenZeus Guide to Three Main Types of Garden Spinach.
GardenZeus expert Darren Butler has a longstanding concern about lead being absorbed from soil into spinach leaves, and as a result, despite its incredible nutritional value, he has boycotted spinach, including organic spinach, for several years, unless it was grown in soil that he knows. GardenZeus encourages you to eat spinach, but only if you test your soil first and grow it yourself. For more information about spinach and lead, see GardenZeus Serious Gardening: Are You Eating Toxic Lead with Your Spinach and Leafy Greens?.
Purchase seeds, not seedlings. Spinach is somewhat sensitive to root disturbance and transplanting, and should generally be seeded directly outdoors. GardenZeus recommends against transplanting spinach starts, especially if rootbound, as they may be prone to shock, slow establishment, diseases, pests, and other problems.
Spinach starts can be effectively transplanted about 2 to 4 weeks after germination; this is generally recommend for skilled biointensive gardeners and experienced gardeners who are willing to monitor seedlings closely, time plantings while spinach roots are still small, and handle transplants with extreme care.
Spinach is somewhat fussy about soil; it is sensitive to wet soils, acidity, salinity, and compaction. It prefers loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, with a preferred pH range of approximately 6.5 to 7.0 and performs reasonably well with low-to-moderate soil fertility and organic matter. Spinach will produce leaves with higher nutritional value in fertile soil.
Spinach may underperform; be slow-growing or stunted; fail; or produce small, chlorotic, impalatable, or yellowed leaves in alkaline soils above 7.3 pH, in acidic soils below about 6.0 pH, in wet or waterlogged soils, or in compacted soils.
Spinach plants tend to have shallow root systems so it's important that upper soil layers are kept moist and fertile until deeper root systems can develop as a result of less-frequent, deeper watering. Spinach seedlings require good drainage for healthy root growth. Careful attention and management may be necessary to ensure adequate drainage and aeration when growing spinach in clay soils. Oxygen is displaced and quickly depleted in wet soils, which also creates conditions that encourage common root diseases.
Spinach is a light feeder, and is recommended for seasonal or annual rotation with heavier feeders such as tomatoes and squash. Avoid planting spinach in the same soil or beds more often than once every 2 to 3 years to reduce concentrations of pests and diseases.
Spinach grows best in full sun with cool-to-warm daytime temperatures of about 50° to 70°F. It may underperform, bolt, or become bitter above 80°F or during long summer days; and may bolt during cold and short fall-and-winter days.
Established plants can withstand short frosts to about 15° to 20°F. Seedlings and young plants may be damaged by frost. Seeds germinate at an unusually wide temperature range, in soil as cold as 35° to 40°F. Optimal soil temperature for spinach germination is about 55° to 70°F. Spinach seeds germinate more quickly at warmer temperatures above 75°F but germination percentage may also decline significantly.
At temperatures of 85° to 90°F and above, virtually all varieties of spinach (Spinacia oleracea) will suffer, become bitter, or bolt in from a few days to 2 to 3 weeks. Spinach will benefit from dappled or partial shade during warm-to-hot weather. See GardenZeus Tips for Shading Vegetables During Hot Weather for creative ideas from expert Darren Butler to provide shade.
Spinach is generally easy when grown during cool weather.
How many spinach plants should you grow per person in your garden? For GardenZeus expert Darren Butler's answer, see: How Much Spinach Should I Grow?: The Popeye-Bluto Garden Spinach Planner.
Many gardeners treat spinach as a "the-more-the-better, can't-go-wrong" vegetable for nutrition. GardenZeus expert Darren Butler says wait, not so fast! He has no disagreement about spinach's nutritional value but maintains a longstanding concern about lead being absorbed from soil into spinach leaves, and as a result, despite its incredible nutritional value, he has boycotted spinach, including organic spinach, for several years, unless it was grown in soil that he knows. GardenZeus encourages you to eat spinach, but only if you test your soil first and grow it yourself. For more information about spinach and lead, see Serious Gardening: Are You Eating Toxic Lead with Your Spinach and Leafy Greens?.
Spinach tends to be shallow-rooted so it's important to maintain consistent moisture in the upper soil, especially while plants are germinating and establishing, and until deeper root systems can develop as a result of less-frequent, deeper watering. For commercial production, spinach is watered frequently and shallowly to maximize production of the highest-quality leaves.
While soil moisture is critical for spinach, it is also sensitive to overly wet soils, and needs sufficient soil oxygen to maintain healthy roots, particularly in heavy clay soils. Avoid overwatering or saturating soils, which encourages soilborne diseases. It's also important to provide sufficient water during warm weather to avoid wilting. When temperatures exceed 85°F, spinach may need watering more than once per day to prolong harvest and produce the best quality of leaves for its remaining harvest period.
Spinach seeds are large enough to plant by hand. Start seeds directly outdoors during cool, frost-free periods. Loosen soil to at least several inches or double dig beds, and add compost prior to sowing spinach seeds. Keep soil moist but not wet for starting spinach seeds.
Spinach seeds germinate at an unusually wide temperature range, in soil as cold as 35° to 40°F. Optimal soil temperature for spinach germination is about 55° to 70°F. Spinach seeds germinate more quickly at warmer temperatures above 75°F but germination percentage may also decline significantly. GardenZeus recommends not attempting to germinate spinach seeds at soil temperatures above about 80°F.
Spinach is sensitive to root disturbance and generally should not be transplanted. Spinach can be effectively transplanted within the 2 to 4 weeks after germination; this is generally recommend for skilled biointensive gardeners and experienced gardeners who are willing to monitor seedlings closely, time plantings while roots are still small, and handle transplants with extreme care.
You may wish to plant spinach seeds successively every 2 to 4 weeks during your planting season to ensure an ample supply. How many spinach plants should you grow per person in your garden? For GardenZeus expert Darren Butler's answer, see: How Much Spinach Should I Grow?: The Popeye-Bluto Garden Spinach Planner.
Plant spinach seeds about 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart, or broadcast seeds in a garden bed or area and cover with a layer of fine soil. Thin as needed to final spacing of about 6 inches. Larger and upright varieties may require spacing of 10 to 12 inches; if growing upright varieties of spinach to full size for harvest of mature plants, GardenZeus recommends spacing of about 12 inches. Close spacing may stress spinach plants and encourage early bolting.
5 to 10 days or longer to seed germination (may take 2 to 3 weeks or longer during cool weather). Seeds germinate more quickly at warmer temperatures but a larger proportion of seeds may fail to germinate at soil temperatures above 75° F.
Begin thinning 1 to 2 weeks after germination.
Transplanting is possible about 2 to 4 weeks after germination but recommended for bioiontensive and skilled gardeners only.
12 to 30 days after germination to early harvest of small leaves and thinned plants.
Thin to final spacing by about 2 to 4 weeks after germination.
35 to 65 days from germination to harvest of large leaves and full plants, depending upon variety and growing conditions. Baby spinach may be ready for harvest in 15 to 40 days, depending on variety, growing conditions, and size preference.
Harvest Period: During cool weather and if harvesting single outer leaves rather than entire plants, spinach harvest may last a few or even several weeks.
Because we eat the leaves of spinach plants, we prefer slow flowering (slow bolting), and are generally not concerned with pollination unless saving seeds.
Spinach is generally unfussy as a garden neighbor to other plants, and may be interplanted with many other vegetables. Strawberries and spinach are traditional garden companions.
Brassicas such as broccoli and kale are also traditional companions for spinach, but GardenZeus expert Darren Butler recommends avoiding these combinations because some micorrhizal fungi may be capable of extracting nitrogen from living brassica plants to the possible benefit of spinach but to the detriment of the brassicas. Darren generally disagrees with most claims about usefulness of companion planting with brassicas, and has found that he succeeds best with brassicas when they are kept to themselves and planted at least several feet away from other garden vegetables and most other plants.
If seeding before or during warmweather, spinach may benefit from being planted near taller vegetables or other plants to the southwest so the spinach is shaded during warm afternoons.
Be cautious with planting spinach repeatedly in the same soil or beds, or near other members of the beet family (Chenpodiaceae) such as beets, chard, and quinoa, as this may tend to concentrate or increase problems with pests and diseases.
Spinach requires minimal soil fertility, particularly sufficient nitrogen and phosphorous (60 parts per million is a common commercial-farming minimum for phosphorous) and prefers reasonable levels of soil organic matter. Nitrogen is often the limiting nutrient in growth of spinach. GardenZeus recommends adding nitrogen as a soil drench in the form of diluted urea or a cup of chicken manure diluted in 4 gallons of water (half cup if fresh manure) and mixed thoroughly after seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall and about twice per month thereafter when actively harvesting outer leaves. Overly rapid plant growth from too much nitrogen may encourage insect infestation.
Use 1/4 inch fine mulch for small starts under 2 inches in height; increase to 1/2 inch or more of fine-to-medium mulch after plants are 6 to 8 inches tall. Avoid covering root crowns or stems of spinach with mulch, as this may encourage stem or leaf rot and other diseases.
GardenZeus does not recommend cutting back or pinching spinach leaves except for harvesting. Cutting back the flower stalk or inflorescence of a spinach plant may extend the harvest of leaves by a few days to a few weeks. Spinach tends to become bitter earlier in the process of bolting than other greens; extended harvest might or might not be desired depending upon intended use of leaves and flavor tolerance.
From seed. GardenZeus recommends open-pollinated, untreated, organically grown seeds.
Start seeds directly outdoors during cool and frost-free periods well before your growing season becomes consistently warm-to-hot.
Spinach harvest may be extended somewhat during warm weather by providing shade. See GardenZeus Tips for Shading Vegetables During Hot Weather for creative ideas from expert Darren Butler to provide shade.
Thin young plants for early salads.
To maximize spinach yield over the longest possible period, pinch off or snip off the largest, outermost leaves, low on the midrib or central vein of each leaf, allowing the plant to continue producing new leaves from the growing point at its center. Keep in mind that larger spinach leaves may tend to be bitter, especially on older plants and during warm weather, so you may prefer to harvest newer leaves.
To maximize total yield and avoid stunting plants, avoid harvesting single leaves until spinach plants are at least 6 to 7 inches tall. GardenZeus recommends harvesting about 10% to 20% of a plant’s leaves every 5 to 10 days from vigorous, actively growing plants. Overharvesting will significantly slow growth of new leaves because the plant is using leaf surfaces to capture the energy needed to grow new leaves.
During warm periods, harvest spinach in the morning while leaves are crisp after cool overnight temperatures.
When spinach plants begin to bolt or form a flower stalk, you may wish to harvest the entire plant by cutting it at the root crown. It may be possible to extend harvest slightly by cutting off the flower stalk and continuing to harvest individual leaves, but spinach tends to become bitter quickly after bolting, more so than many other garden greens.
Spinach harvest may be extended somewhat during warm weather by providing shade. See GardenZeus Tips for Shading Vegetables During Hot Weather for creative ideas from expert Darren Butler to provide shade.
Be diligent about removing the grit and sand from spinach before using. Pinch the leaves off the stems, then fill a basin with cold water and submerse the leaves, allowing the grit and sand to sink to the bottom. Lift out the spinach. Repeat this process until no more grit or sand appears in the basin. Place in a salad spinner or on a paper towel to remove excess moisture.
Spinach benefits from rapid chilling if not used immediately after harvest. Store at 32° F at maximum humidity in perforated plastic bag from 10 to 14 days.
Spinach is highly sensitive to ethylene gas, so place stored spinach away from ethylene fruits.
If you must harvest more spinach than you can eat in the next 10 to 14 days, GardenZeus recommends freezing. Blanch spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds to 2 minutes, until the green color of the spinach brightens, then immerse in ice water to cool quickly and prevent overcooking. Blanching softens leaves and stems, which makes them easier to work with when preparing for freezing, and helps to preserve nutrition and flavor. Remove air from freezer bags using a vacuum sealer or manually with a straw to minimize freezer burn. GardenZeus recommends using frozen spinach within 60 days, but flavor and quality may be reasonable for longer periods.
Popeye and Catherine de Medici were right: spinach is a nutritional powerhouse, high in numerous vitamins and minerals including A, B6, C, K, folic acid, riboflavin, iron, potassium, and manganese.